Listener Questions

Answer: Charles, pressure treated wood foundations have successfully been used for some time. The primary benefits are low cost, ease of construction, and ease of repair.

Of particular concern however is the behavior of wood when exposed to underground moisture: it rots. Even pressure treated wood is not intended to be exposed to constant ground moisture and will deteriorate over time.

If you are considering a wood foundation, consult multiple sources of reference including water proofing details and structural bracing. An excellent starting point is here.

Proper water proofing and bracing details insure that the wood foundation, though under ground, will never directly contact underground moisture and will be able to withstand the various types of loads and pressures applied to any foundation and will last the life of the home.

Answer: Marilyn, installing any light fixture, including ceiling fans, is possible in a ceiling that currently contains no lights, but the process will be slightly more invasive. Electrical wires will have to be run in the attic (if the room is on the upper level or if the home is only one level) or in the floor system above (if the room is on the main level of a two story home), and new wires must be run for the controls, since there are probably no switches in a room with no lights. A new connection to the central panel will possibly have to be made as well.

Consult with a licensed, insured electrical contractor for this project as it will likely require specialized tools and could be dangerous if working inside the panel box.

Answer: Sheila, if Killz is not working, I’m not aware of any other paint that will hide this.

Hopefully the water damage was given ample time to dry out before you attempted to cover it. As long as there is any residual moisture in the wall (including in the insulation inside the wall), it will continue to dry, penetrating any attempt at a cover up.

Mold and mildew need two things to survive: moisture and food. The moisture in your wall came from the roof leak. The food is the paper facing on the drywall or the plaster itself. Again, the wall must be completely dry, eliminating one requirement for growth, before attempting to cover up damage.

Ultimately, many water damaged areas need to be removed, allowed to dry and replaced.

Answer: Tracey, this is a very common question. But thankfully the answer is relatively simple:

If your windows are slightly (or significantly) trapezoid-shaped, begin at the bottom. Find the highest point along the bottom of the opening, and using a level, mark the high point on both sides. Now, measure from the marks up the sides to determine the shortest side, and mark this measurement on both sides.

Repeat this process on the sides. The goal is to find the shortest dimensions in each direction, like this:

Or this: Or this:

That will allow a square new window to fit inside the old crooked opening. Be sure to properly shim the new window and insulate any remaining gaps to maximize the life and performance of your new windows.

Answer: Holly, Any type of flooring can be installed over linoleum but there are a few factors to consider:

1. Kitchens are usually high traffic, high mess possibility areas, so finishes like carpet and some types of manufactured flooring that do not handle moisture well, should not be considered.
2. The existing subfloor system may or may not be engineered to handle heavier types of flooring like ceramic tile.
3. Covering linoleum with any type of flooring will slightly change the counter height, unless the cabinets are removed during the renovation.
4. By covering the linoleum, you are entrusting the performance of the new flooring in part to the quality of the linoleum installation (if the linoleum is not properly adhered to the subfloor, the new floor may squeak, crack, cup or bubble).

My recommendation is to remove the linoleum, inspect the condition of the subfloor and select a solid hardwood or ceramic tile product for the replacement.

Answer: Cheryl, The short answer is yes.

But mobile homes are typically built with lighter construction materials than traditional site built homes. This means uniquely careful consideration and planning should happen before any modifications are done (of course, careful planning and consideration is part of any home modification).

Hire a builder and/or designer who works closely with a structural engineer, or hire a structural engineer to consult with you directly regarding the special structural requirements of your mobile home.

Mark, The diameter of the pipe will be determined by both the length of the run (45’ in your case) and the demand of the appliance or appliances (gas logs for you).

Here is a helpful chart to help you find the right size for your application.

Answer: Beth, There are several over the counter products available designed to kill mold and mildew. But mold and mildew need two things to survive: moisture and food. In your greenhouse, the moisture is probably coming from the warm, humid climate, and from the leaky roof. The food source is obviously the wood framing.

To solve this problem without rebuilding I recommend a multi-step process:

1. Fix the roof and eliminate a big source of constant moisture.
2. Allow the structure to dry out completely. Even mold and mildew killers will not work if moisture is still present in the wood.
3. Paint the exposed wood with a high quality exterior paint that will seal it from the ongoing high moisture of the greenhouse.

If the mold and mildew have compromised the structural integrity of the wood framing, replace it with a metal or vinyl structure (or with a wood species that is resistant to mold…like cedar) that is naturally mold and mildew resistant.

Answer: Jill, attic heat in an older home is a common problem with several solutions. Mechanical attic fans can be installed on any type of roof and wired to a thermostat which will turn the fan on when the temperature reaches the programmed level. This is probably the quickest, easiest and most affordable method of dealing with the problem and it will make a positive difference.

If you want to go further, you could add additional insulation along the ceiling of the second floor. Inadequate ceiling insulation is another common problem of older homes and is worth evaluating and upgrading. Adding insulation will help keep the heat out of the conditioned space in your home.

One final option would be to hire an insulation contractor to install open cell foam spray insulation along the roof deck of the attic. This will bring the entire attic space “inside the building envelope” and completely seal out the hot, unconditioned air. This option is the most thorough, but also the most expensive, and may require evaluating and upgrading your heating and cooling system. If you’re interested in this option, contact a local insulation specialist for advice.

Answer: Dean, You’re off to a great start toward improving the energy performance of your home. Here are a couple other tips:

• Replace incandescent light bulbs with CFL or LED bulbs. Compact Flourecsent or Light-Emitting Diode bulbs use a fraction of the electricity of an incandescent and burn much cooler.
• Install an insulation blanket around your water heater. Electric water heaters are a main consumer of electric in our homes.
• Upgrade old appliances to ENERGYSTAR models. An old deep freeze can account for as much as 10% of your energy bill.
• Seal all the gaps and cracks in your home with silicone based caulk or expanding foam sealant. Insulation provides an R value (which measures a material’s ability to resist temperature changes), but if air is moving through the insulation, its ability to resist temperature change is reduced. Sealing all gaps and cracks allows insulation to do its job and can save up to 10% on your energy bills. Be sure to seal behind electrical outlets, light switches, ceiling mounted light fixtures, pipe and wire penetrations and air registers.
• Install a programmable thermostat. Conditioning the home only when it’s occupied can be a big energy saver.
• Install ceiling fans. Moving air will keep you more comfortable in all seasons, allowing you to set the thermostat higher in summer and lower in winter saving energy.
• Hire an independent energy auditor. A professional energy auditor is equipped to inform you of all the energy sapping areas of your home and can provide you with a comprehensive report and plan for saving energy.

For more energy saving tips for your home visit:
www.energysavers.gov
www.energystar.gov

Answer: Brenda, Unfortunately all finishes applied to wood are temporary. In general, you can expect to refinish your deck every 2-5 years depending on its exposure to weather and the finish you select.

In general, stains work better than paint because they penetrate into the wood, and light colored stains are better than dark because they reveal less of the wood’s imperfections.

If the ongoing maintenance of a wood deck is not appealing, consider a composite decking product. These products offer very good warranties (up to 25 years), are maintenance free, and come in a wide variety of colors and finishes.

If you love wood, learn to love maintaining it!

Answer: Louis, A floor should last longer than 6 years depending on the quality of the product, the quality of the installation and the location of the material. If you have product information on the flooring, contact the manufacturer to see if the product is covered by any type of warranty.

The floor may be giving you clues to a larger problem. Glue breaking down can be an indicator of moisture in the air or in the substrate under the floor. In general, composite products (like laminate wood or tile) are not recommended for high moisture areas like kitchens and bathrooms.

Answer: Larry, If the cracked plaster is a result of age and wear, there should not be a problem covering it with new plaster or some type of paneling.

However, before you conceal gaps and cracks, consult with a structural engineer or building professional to determine if the cracks are the result of ongoing settling or simply old age. Cracks that are structural in nature should be addressed prior to concealing them.

Answer: Dorothy, I recommend consulting with a licensed building contractor with commercial experience or a licensed Architectural firm with similar experience.

A licensed building contractor will be able to help you evaluate building specific questions based on your unique set of goals and expectations and help you find a qualified Architect to review your standardized plans to make sure they are approved for construction in our area.

An Architect can also help you evaluate your questions in light of your situation, provide engineering and certification for your standardized plans to make sure they’re approved for local codes, and help select a qualified Contractor.

For a complete list of local Building Contractors and Architects, visit www.valleybuilders.org.